During my two-week stay in Ethiopia, I didn’t see any traffic lights – even in the capital Addis Ababa, where five million people are said to reside. Yet, drivers, including those of numerous minibus taxis, are refreshingly civilized (a happy surprise and shock to South Africans). Traffic runs smoothly. No chaos.
Although Ethiopia is one of the fastest growing economies in the world, GDP per capita is still one of the lowest. Its richness lies in its gentle but resilient people, long history, diverse and unique culture, and breathtakingly beautiful landscape.
This time, I travelled around northern Ethiopia – Addis Ababa, Lalibela, Axum, Yeha, Adwa, Simien Mountains National Park, Gondar, Lake Tana, Bahir Dar and Blue Nile.
2週間のエチオピア滞在中、信号をひとつも目にしなかった。5百万人が住んでいるといわれる首都アディスアベバですら信号がない。なのに、交通は混乱もなく進む。アグレッシブなドライバーが多い南アフリカから来た者にとっては驚異的である。
エチオピアは現在、世界でも経済成長が著しい国。それでも国民の大多数がとても貧しい。エチオピアの豊かさは、優しくかつ強靭な国民、長い歴史、多様性に富みユニークな文化、そして息を呑むほど美しい自然にある。
今回の旅では国の北部を回った。(アディスアベバ、ラリベラ、アクスム、イェハ、アドワ、シエミン国立公園、ゴンダル、タナ湖、バヒールダール、青ナイル川。)

Two women walking in front of construction site. Addis Ababa

People across the street from National Museum of Ethiopia, Addis Ababa

Roof at Palace of Menalik II, Mount Entonto, Addis Ababa

Chimney at Palace of Menalik II. Mount Entonto, Addis Ababa

Girl singing aloud, oblivious of her family’s activity around her. Shiro-Meda (cotton market), Addis Ababa

Barbershop. Addis Ababa

Mannequins. Adwa Street, Addis Ababa

Dog relaxing. Adwa Street, Addis Ababa

Grocery shop where I bought tea. Adwa Street, Addis Ababa

Old lady walking in the middle of the road, Addis Ababa

Priest standing at the entrance. Holy Trinity Cathedral, Addis Ababa

Head part of Emperor Haile Selassie’s chair. Holy Trinity Cathedral, Addis Ababa

In every church you see people (mostly middle-aged and old women) squatting or sitting on the ground. They rely on the goodwill of churchgoers, but are seldom seen actively begging. Holy Trinity Cathedral, Addis Ababa

After rain in late afternoon. Addis Ababa

Fruit sellers. Addis Ababa

“Look!” Addis Ababa

Wild flowers. On the way to Ne’akuto Le’ab Church, Lalibela

Happy herdboy running along. On the way to Ne’akuto Le’ab Church, Lalibela

Cactus. Ne’akuto Le’ab Church, Lalibela

Wild flowers. Ne’akuto Le’ab Church, Lalibela

Sneakers at the door. Ne’akuto Le’ab Church, Lalibela

Priest at Ne’akuto Le’ab Church, Lalibela

Lone tree standing on top of hill. Ne’akuto Le’ab Church, Lalibela

Boy squatting in front of house, marked “x” and “-1”, Lalibela

Door at Beta Medhane Alem, Lalibela

Children giggling. Beta Maryam, Lalibela

Three men chatting. Lalibela

Man holding a book, Lalibela

Carpet and drums. Beta Meskel, Lalibela

Thatched-roof. On the way to Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Herdboy waving. On the way to Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Three brothers herding goats. On the way to Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

The eldest brother looking proud. On the way to Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Boys waving at our vehicle. On the way to Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Going home after church. On the way to Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Man walking in the field. On the way to Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Wife preparing tea. Village near Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Mother and toddler. Village near Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

All the cats I saw in this village were orange. Village near Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Very curious little girls. Village near Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Girl looking solemn. Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Girl looking amused. Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Thatch-roofed house. Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Cat crawling into the house. Village near Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

I wonder what everybody is looking at. Village near Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Lady at a coffee house. Village near Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Old man pondering. Village near Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Father and son. Village near Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Young woman. Village near Yemrehane Kristos Cave Church, Lalibela

Boy carrying leaves on the head. Lalibela

Firewood. Beta Aba Libanos, Lalibela

Priest reading the scripture. Beta Aba Libanos, Lalibela

Priest standing at the entrance. Beta Emanuel, Lalibela

Cat and her human. Beta Giyorgis, Lalibela

Beta Giyorgis. Lalibela

DVD shop. Axum

The tallest stelae (33 m), credited to the 3rd-century King Remhai, was never been erected probably because the base was too small to support it. The Main Stelae Field, Axum

Flowers at the Main Stelae Fields, Axum

Bird at Tombs of Kaleb and Gabre Meskel, Axum

Many people gather at Mai Shum (Queen Sheba’s Bath), washing, cleaning, swimming and collecting water. Axum

Young woman sitting on the stairs. Tsion Maryam Church, Axum

Shop at Tsion Maryam Church, Axum

Toddler looking serious. Tsion Maryam Church, Axum

Window washer. Tsion Maryam Church, Axum

Window washer. Tsion Maryam Church, Axum

Woman sitting on the ground. Tsion Maryam Church, Axum

Motorbike passing a smart-looking elderly gentleman with sheep. Axum

Girl herding sheep. Axum

Young woman looking melancholic. Axum

Mother looking after four kids. Axum

Husband and wife in discussion. Axum

Street. Axum

Old woman sitting in shade. Arbaet-Ensesa (Church of the Four Animals), Axum

Woman sitting in shade. Arbaet-Ensesa (Church of the Four Animals), Axum

Pigeon house. Arbaet-Ensesa (Church of the Four Animals), Axum

Two women walking with parasol. Axum

Shop window. Axum

Woman at a shop. Axum

Awning. Axum

Roof construction. Axum

Street sign. Axum

Durgur ruins. Axum

Durgur ruins. Axum

This girl followed us without uttering a word. Quarry, Axum

Woman walking with donkey. Axum

Tef field. On the way to Lion of Gobedra, Axum

Quiet girl. On the way to Lion of Gobedra, Axum

Goat on rock. On the way down from Lion of Gobedra, Axum

Man checking messages on donkey cart. On the way to Aba Gerima, east of Adwa

Sunbird. Aba Gerima, east of Adwa

On the way to Yeha

Two young women. Yeha

Woman yawning. Yeha

Man sleeping. Yeha

At the museum entrance. Yeha

Happy baby sheep with mommy. Yeha

Children drawing water. Yeha

Mattress on taxi roof. Adwa

Three boys after school. Adwa

Young family. Adwa

Pretty girl on the way back from Adwa to Axum

Horse cart, Shire

Ploughing. On the way from Shire to Debark

Boy ploughing with two oxen. On the way from Shire to Debark

Girl and skinny calf. On the way from Shire to Debark

Play time. On the way from Shire to Debark

Camels and cows under big tree. On the way from Shire to Debark

Stunning girls. On the way from Shire to Debark

Super friendly kids. On the way from Shire to Debark

On the way from Shire to Debark

On the way from Shire to Debark

On the way from Shire to Debark

Furniture maker. Debark

On the way from Debark to Simien Mountains National Park

Morning walk in the mist, Simien Mountains National Park

Morning walk, Simien Mountains National Park

Geladas play-fighting. Simien Mountains National Park

Jump! Juvenile geladas love jumping/falling from a tree. Simien Mountains National Park

Adult male gelada on the watch. Simien Mountains National Park

Geladas spend many hours a day grooming each other. Simien Mountains National Park

Flowers. Simien Mountains National Park

Woman in the mist. Simien Mountains National Park

Man with horses. Simien Mountains National Park

Farmers. On the way from Simien National Park to Gondar

Neighbourhood kids rushed to see us, who were watching the farmer tossing hay. On the way from Simien National Park to Gondar

Falasha village. On the way from Simien National Park to Gondar

Bird at Royal Enclosure, Gondar

Fire finch. The Four Sisters, the restaurant, leaves crumbs outside for birds. Gondar

Broken pot. Gondar

White-cheeked turaco. Gondar

Door with writing. Kuskuam Church, Gondar

Boy observing from above. Kuskuam Church, Gondar

Kuskuam Church, Gondar

Discarded cart. Fasilides Bath, Gondar

Red flowers on the door. Debre Birhan Selassie Church, Gondar

“What do you want?” Gondar

Dog looking back. Gondar

Boy dragging empty plastic bottles. Gondar

Narge Selassie, Lake Tana

Silver-cheeked hornbill. Narge Selassie, Lake Tana

Pelicans flying over Lake Tana

A lot of children and some adults, like this priest, are seen wearing these green plastic shoes. Azewa Mariam Church, Zeghie, Lake Tana

Fishing in papyrus boat. Lake Tana

Outlet of Blue Nile. Lake Tana

The first Pepsi vehicles I saw. Coca-Cola is all over the country. Bahir Dar

On the way from Bahir Dar to Blue Nile Falls

On the way from Bahir Dar to Blue Nile Falls

Walk from Tis Abay Town to Blue Nile Falls

Walk from Tis Abay Town to Blue Nile Falls

Blue Nile Falls with rainbow

Blue Nile Falls with flowers

Crossing Blue Nile. It took us only 5 minutes by a small motorboat.