Georgia, September-October 2022

I arrived in Tbilisi, the capital, totally ill-prepared, with little knowledge or understanding of the country or its people. I bought a guidebook (“Bradt Georgia”) and maps at Prospero’s Books and started to make a plan. I asked a Georgian native where he would go. “If you only have a few days, use Tbilisi as a base and make day trips to various places. If you have a week or longer, definitely go to Svaneti” was his answer.

In the end, we visited Tbilisi (the capital), Mtskheta (the heart of Georgia’s spiritual identity), Davit-Gareja (cave monasteries from the 6th century on the Azerbaijani border), Mestia and Ushguli (Svaneti), Kutaisi (the capital from 978 to 1122), Borjomi (spa town), Akhaltsikhe (Rabati Castle) and Vardzia (medieval cave city).

My two-week stay was a true eye-opening experience and full of delightful surprises.

殆ど何の知識も理解もない状態で、ジョージアの首都トビリシに足を踏み入れた。まずは本屋でガイドブックと地図を買う。知り合ったジョージア人に「あなたならどこに行く?」と聞いたところ、「数日の滞在ならトビリシをベースに近郊へ日帰り旅行。1週間以上あるのなら、絶対スヴァネティ」。

結局訪れたのは、トビリシ(首都)、ムツヘタ(宗教的な心の故郷)、デビットガレジ(6世紀に作られた洞窟修道院)、メスティアとウシュグリ(スヴァネティ地方)、クタイシ(10-12世紀の首都)、ボルジョミ(温泉の町)、アハルツィへ(ラバティ城)、そしてヴァルジア(中世の洞窟都市)。

2週間の滞在は嬉しい驚きの連続だった。

Map of Georgia
Blue dots and names in a red square indicate the places I visited. The provinces of Abkhazia (green) and South Ossetia (lavender) are currently occupied by Russia.

Some interesting facts about Georgia:

Georgia is a transcontinental country at the intersection of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, surrounded by the Black Sea, Russia, Turkey, Armenia and Azerbaijan. It boasts highly sophisticated ancient culture, breathtaking landscape and incredibly kind and hospitable people.

The Georgian language belongs to the Kartvelian family, which is unrelated to any other language families, and has its own unique alphabet.

Georgia adopted Christianity as its state religion in 327, the second country to do so after Armenia.

Georgia is one of the oldest wine regions in the world, cultivating grapes for winemaking since 6000 BC. The ancient traditional Georgian winemaking method using the kvevri clay jars is a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Georgia is a pro-Western, representative democracy and is eager to join EU and NATO. It is very liberal, being one of the first countries in the world to legalize cannabis. At the same time, the society is quite civil and courteous. A young man without fail would offer a seat to older women in public transport.

20% of the country is currently occupied by Russia.

ジョージアについての興味深い点をいくつかご紹介する。

東ヨーロッパと西アジアが交わるところに位置する。黒海、ロシア、トルコ、アルメニア、アゼルバイジャンに取り囲まれている。数千年の歴史を誇る洗練された文化と息を呑むような美しい自然と心優しい人々を誇る。

ジョージア語は他のどの言語族とも関係がないカルトヴェリ語族に属し、また独自のアルファベットを持つ。

ジョージアがキリスト教を国教と定めたのは327年。アルメニアに続き、世界第2番目だ。

紀元前6000年からワイン用ブドウを栽培。世界でも最も古いワイン生産国のひとつである。クヴェヴリと呼ばれる土瓶を使った手法はユネスコの無形文化財に指定されている。

西側諸国と近い関係にある民主国家で、EUやNATOの加盟に意欲を燃やしている。世界に先駆けて大麻を合法化するなどリベラルな反面、公共交通機関で若い男性が年長者、特に女性に決まって席を譲るなど、古風で礼儀正しい国民性がある。

現在、国土の20%がロシアに占拠されている。

Statue in the park behind National Gallery, Tbilisi, September 2022
The Museum of Books, Tbilisi, September 2022
The Museum of Books, Tbilisi, September 2022
Happy Tiger Year, Avlabari, Tbilisi, September 2022
Tbilisi in the day, September 2022
Tbilisi at night, September 2022
Metekhi Church, Tbilisi, September 2022
Old town, Tbilisi, September 2022
Old town, Tbilisi, September 2022
Old man on the street, old town, Tbilisi, September 2022
Mtatsminda funicular terminal, Tbilisi, September 2022
Mtatsminda Pantheon of Writers and Public Figures, Tbilisi, September 2022
Police station, Tbilisi, September 2022
Rezo Gabriadze Theatre, Tbilisi, September 2022
Safe Night Club, Erekle II Street, Tbilisi, September 2022
ART IS NOT A THING, IT IS A WAY, Erekle II Street, Tbilisi, October 2022
Street vendor at the Tbilisoba festival, Tbilisi, October 2022
THE ‘EARTH’ WITHOUT ‘ART’ IS JUST ‘EH’, Tbilisi, October 2022
Jvari Monastery, Mtskheta, September 2022
Jvari Monastery, Mtskheta, September 2022
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Mtskheta, September 2022
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, Mtskheta, September 2022
Davit-Gareja monasteries, October 2022
Davit-Gareja monasteries, October 2022
Davit-Gareja monasteries, October 2022
Cross at Azerbaijani borders, Davit-Gareja, October 2022. Four border guards, two Georgians and two Azerbaijanis, patrol together.
Davit-Gareja monasteries and Rainbow Mountain, October 2022
Locked door at a water collecting cave, Davit-Gareja monasteries, October 2022
Chalaadi Glacier, near Mestia, October 2022
Chalaadi Glacier, near Mestia, October 2022
Chalaadi Glacier, near Mestia, October 2022
Chalaadi Glacier, near Mestia, October 2022
Cows on the street, Mestia, October 2022
Traffic, Mestia, October 2022
Snow-capped mountains seen from Mestia, October 2022
“Stop trying to make everyone happy. You’re not tequila!” Bar sign, Mestia, October 2022
Snow-capped mountains seen from Mestia, October 2022
Svan towers, Mestia, October 2022. These defensive tower houses were primarily built between the 9th and 12th centuries.
Pot and various items for children on roof, Mestia, October 2022
You can see snow-capped mountains from everywhere. Mestia, October 2022
Cow and Svan towers, Mestia, October 2022
It’s so beautiful that one cannot stop photographing. Mestia, October 2022
The moon over the police station (building on the right), Mestia, October 2022
Dilapidated house, Ushguli, October 2022
Arrow on the door, Ushguli, October 2022
Narrow path, Ushguli, October 2022
Caucasus Mountains seen from Ushguli, October 2022
Caucasus Mountains seen from Ushguli, October 2022
Small church window, Ushguli, October 2022
Church wall, Ushguli, October 2022
Ushguli, October 2022
Autumn leaves, Borjomi, October 2022
Vardzia, Georgia’s finest medieval cave city, October 2022
Bells, Vardzia, October 2022
Church door, Gelati, near Kutaisi, October 2022
Bagrat Cathedral, Kutaisi, October 2022
Washing line, Kutaisi, October 2022
Cute pedestrian crossing, Kutaisi, October 2022

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